July 23, 2012
[...] Rijeka has impressive Habsburg-era architecture in Second Empire and Baroque styles. However, most of the city appears past it's prime-- dingy, peeling plaster and graffiti. The primary shopping street is clean, though, with seating outside many restaurants on the wide pedestrian boulevard. We headed east to a series of 500+ stairs that climb to a small town called Trsat. At the top was a castle from the 1300s (modified in the 19th century) with impressive views of Rijeka down below. We passed a nun on the way up who was likely headed to the Catholic pilgrimage church near the castle.
[Later that day] we drove west to Opatije (Oh-pat-ee-ya"), a resort town about half an hour away. The one main street is lined with Viennese mansions, most of which have been converted to hotels. We walked on the waterfront promenade, past man-made concrete beaches and pools full of sunbathers.